So ast night I started taking apart the mink coat to see what I could find... and what was still useable. This is what I found. All photos can be enlarged by clicking on them.
1.) Once the satin lining is pulled back you can see how a taffeta underlining is hand-basted to the pelts to reinforce them.
2.) Here I pulled back the facing and you can see the interfacing and the hand-basting that holds it in place. I decided not to remove this until I know what I am going to do.
3.) You can see how a long strip of taffeta was folded double and then basted over the edge of the pelts to protect the hem.
4.) There is a strip of pleated satin sewn around the neck of the lining which forms a little ruffle under the collar area.
5.) There is a very wide facing to the cuffs. It is a separate piece with more interfacing.
6.) Once the cuff interfacing is opened up you can see the stamp marks on the underside of the pelts. These stamps are used to grade the type and quality of the fur when the underside is prepared.
7.) Here you can see the seams on the underside of the sleeve. These are the seams I'll have to open up when I get ready to work on the new design.
8.) Here is one of the holes in the sleeve/shoulder area. The pelt is split but there is no deterioration of the hide so it can probably be stitched together with taffeta reinforcement.
9.) And here is the culprit -- why the pelt split. Interfacing was glued together and the glue hardened, cracked and split open. This will have to be taken out.
10.) This is a little shoulder-pad made of four layers of a stiff interfacing. It doesn't add much bulk but provides shaping.
So that is what lies between the lining and the pelts. Now I have to decide what to do next.
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